Press Release Locations

Press Release Report Part 1 – A REALLIFE MONEY PIT HOME INSPECTOR REVEALS THE SHOCKING REALITY BEHIND QUICK FLIPPING A DANGEROUS HOUSE OF HORRORSPress Release Report Part 2 – A REALLIFE MONEY PIT HOME INSPECTOR REVEALS THE SHOCKING REALITY BEHIND QUICK FLIPPING A DANGEROUS HOUSE OF HORRORS

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Dryer Transition Duct Information

 

I have reviewed many home inspection reports and one of the many things that stand out is how some home inspectors report on dryer vent connectors. Recently a picture of a flexible dryer transition duct was posted on a home inspector Facebook page and another home inspector commented, “That’s not allowed”. Since his statement is not at all accurate, I’ve decided to take the time to write what is, and is not, allowed.

 

 

The different types of dryer vents 
A. Plastic – Not UL listed for use as a dryer transition duct.
B. Smooth interior 28 gauge metal duct approved as a dryer duct
C. Foil flexible – UL approved as a dryer transition duct, but not recommended by the CPSC.
D. Semi-rigid – UL approved as a dryer transition duct and recommended by the CPSC

Definitions:

1. Dryer Duct – This is the smooth wall section of the duct that runs through the house and passes through the exterior wall.
2. Dryer Transition Duct – This is the flexible section that connects the dryer to the dryer duct.

Dryer Duct Rules: 2015 IRC M1502

M1502.2 Dryer Ducts need to be independent and convey moisture to the exterior.

M1502.3 Dryer ducts exhaust to the exterior, the discharge must have a backdraft damper and be at least 3 feet away from openings.

M1502.4.1 Dryer ducts are to be smooth and made out of metal that is a minimum 27-gauge steel. The dryer duct must be 4″ in diameter.

M1502.4.5.1 Dryer ducts shall be no more than 35 feet from outside terminal to transition duct. Exception: Unless the manufacturer of the dryer specifies differently.  Most dryer manufacturers allow between 60 and 85 feet.  Quite a big difference.

Transition Duct Rules: 2015 IRC M1502

M1502.4.2 Transition ducts shall be a single piece, listed as UL 2158A, not more than 8 feet long, and not concealed within construction.

Some dryer manufacturers and a bunch of home inspectors hate the foil dryer transition ducts. They are UL 2158A Listed for use with gas and electric dryers. Since Underwriters Laboratories does extensive testing and states that these transition ducts are acceptable for use in that fashion. I agree with UL and I don’t have a problem with them. Keep them clean and make sure they are not squished when installed.

Many inspectors like the semi-rigid aluminum ducts better. They state that the foil type gets clogged way too easy. Nobody has any data to back that up. There is Publication 5022 distributed June-2003 and updated Feb-2012 that addresses the dangers of dryer fires which mentions they shouldn’t be used. I do believe that the CPSC is a credible source, but I do not believe they did the same type of testing as is done by UL. Add this to my 36 years in the fire service, and I stand by my opinion that these foil type transition ducts are just fine.

For the record, the semi-rigid transition ducts can also be squished. They do not return to their original shape when the pressure is removed. There are also look-a-like semi-rigid ducts that are not UL listed.

I always believe that the choice of what is acceptable, and not acceptable, belongs to the home buyers. I believe my job is to give as much information as possible to help you make an educated decision.

Chicago Office Website: http://www.TheHomeInspectors.com/

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Northbrook Office Website: http://www.ChicagolandHomeInspectors.net

Northbrook Office Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/chicagoland-home-inspectors-northbrook-2

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWWsanAlMHMiAbez4OE1Gbg

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The Importance of Downspout Extensions

I was doing a home inspection in Glenview when I informed my client about the lack of downspout extensions.  The real estate agent spoke up and stated that the home inspector she uses doesn’t think that is a problem.  I always thought that every home inspector calls out downspouts discharging too close to a house.  Let’s ask the question; is that a big deal?”  Yes, because of the damage it can cause, and no because it is such an easy and inexpensive fix.  Home inspectors usually tell their clients to get the downspouts 4 to 6 feet away from the building.  Here is why we say “4 to 6 feet”.

When houses are first built, a hole needs to be dug out and earth is removed.  This is referred to as the over-dig for the foundation.  The over-dig is the room needed for the construction workers to get the forms in and out so they can make the footings and foundations.

The footing is then poured and allowed to cure (harden).  The foundation is then poured on top of that and eventually the basement floor is poured on top of the footing on the inside of the foundation wall.  Since these three areas are not poured at one single time, there is a cold joint at this location.  Waterproofing professionals refer to this area as the cove.  Drain tile, stone, and the earth are installed on the outside of the foundation.

Here is the problem. The earth never goes back into the over-dig exactly the same way it came out.  We end up with gaps, pockets of air, and avenues where water can easily travel down to the undisturbed earth that the foundation is sitting on.  The water can then pool in this area and cause the earth to weaken.  Weakened earth will cause settling. If the pooling water gets high enough, water then enters the basement.  None of this is good.

If downspout extensions are used to get the water past the over-dig, 95% of the water will not enter the over-dig and pool up next to the foundation.  So let’s install those extensions.  Get the water 4 to 6 feet away from the house and greatly reduce the chances of settlement and water entry into the home.

• Chicagoland Home Inspectors, Inc. Northbrook office – Yelp Page
• Chicagoland Home Inspectors, Inc. Chicago office – Yelp Page

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